Quick answer: A refrigerator that stops cooling usually comes down to one of six things: dirty condenser coils, a failed evaporator fan, a defrost system fault, a bad compressor or start relay, a faulty thermistor, or a sealed-system refrigerant leak. Start with the easy checks, power, temperature setting, and airflow, then work toward the parts that need a technician. If the freezer is cold but the fridge is warm, the problem is almost always airflow: the evaporator fan or the defrost system.
Key Takeaways
- Most no-cooling calls trace back to dirty condenser coils or a failed evaporator fan, both common and fixable.
- Fridge warm but freezer cold means air is not moving, check the evaporator fan and defrost system first.
- Food is unsafe after about 2 hours above 40°F, so act fast (USDA FSIS).
- The compressor and sealed system are technician-only repairs. Do not attempt them yourself.
Why is my refrigerator not cooling?
A refrigerator cools through three systems working together: the sealed system that moves refrigerant, the airflow system that pushes cold air where it needs to go, and the defrost system that keeps the coils clear. A fault in any one of them shows up as a fridge that will not hold temperature. Roughly speaking, most no-cooling problems fall into the causes below, ordered from most to least common in the homes we service.
Symptom to likely cause
| What you notice | Most likely cause |
|---|---|
| Fridge warm, freezer still cold | Evaporator fan or defrost system |
| Both fridge and freezer warm, unit running | Dirty condenser coils or condenser fan |
| Completely silent, no hum at all | Compressor, start relay, or power |
| Runs constantly, never gets cold enough | Refrigerant leak or dirty coils |
| Frost sheet on the back freezer wall | Defrost heater or defrost thermostat |
| Temperature swings up and down | Thermistor or control board |
If the freezer is packed with ice rather than simply not cooling, start with our guide to frost buildup in a freezer, which covers the defrost heater, thermostat and drain line in detail.
First checks before you call anyone
Before assuming the worst, rule out the simple stuff. A surprising share of no-cooling calls end at a tripped breaker or a wrong setting. These take five minutes and cost nothing. Family Handyman puts basic power and airflow checks at the top of every diagnosis (Family Handyman).
- Power and breaker: confirm the plug is seated and the kitchen circuit has not tripped.
- Temperature setting: the fridge should sit near 37°F and no higher than 40°F (4°C), the freezer at 0°F (-18°C), the range Health Canada recommends. A bumped dial is a common culprit.
- Doors and seals: make sure both doors close fully and nothing is holding them ajar.
- Clearance: leave at least an inch behind the unit so it can shed heat.
- Overpacking: a stuffed fridge blocks the internal vents, so cold air cannot circulate.
- Give it time: our technicians see this constantly. People open the door every few minutes to check whether it is getting cold, which lets warm air in and resets the process. After changing a setting or closing a door that was ajar, wait several hours before judging it.
- Where it sits: a standard fridge in an unheated garage or cold basement will stop cooling properly once the room gets cold, because the thermostat sits in the fresh food compartment. See frost buildup in a freezer for how that plays out in a Winnipeg winter.
Fridge not cooling but freezer working
A fridge not cooling but freezer working, sometimes described as the fridge not cold but the freezer is, is the single most common version of this problem, and it points straight at airflow. Cold air is made in the freezer and blown into the fridge, so when the fridge stays warm while the freezer holds, the air is not making the trip. Our technicians check the evaporator fan and the defrost system first on this pattern, before anything in the sealed system.
- Evaporator fan motor: this fan blows cold air from the freezer coils into the fridge. If it fails, the freezer stays cold but the fridge warms up. Open the freezer and listen for it running.
- Defrost system: a failed defrost heater, bi-metal thermostat, or timer lets frost build over the evaporator coils until air can no longer pass. You will often see a solid sheet of ice on the back freezer wall.
- Air damper: this flap controls how much cold air crosses into the fridge. Stuck shut, it starves the fridge compartment.
- Blocked vents: food pushed against the interior vents blocks the path completely.
One caution before you try anything. Our technicians ask customers not to unplug the fridge or start removing panels ahead of a visit. A unit left in its faulty state is far quicker to diagnose accurately than one that has been reset or partly dismantled. If you can see a sheet of ice over the back freezer wall, that is the defrost system, and working out which of the three components failed is a test sequence rather than a guess. See frost buildup in a freezer for how that fault develops.
Dirty condenser coils
Condenser coils shed the heat pulled out of your food, and when they are buried in dust and pet hair they cannot do it. The compressor then runs hotter and longer, and on badly clogged coils it can overheat and shut off entirely. This is one of the most preventable causes on the list. Cleaning the coils every 6 to 12 months keeps the whole system efficient. Slide the fridge out, find the coils underneath or behind, and clear them with a coil brush and a vacuum, working gently around the thin tubing.
Compressor, start relay, and condenser fan
If the freezer fan is running but the fridge never gets cold, the fault often sits with the compressor or its start relay. The compressor is the pump at the heart of the cooling cycle. The start relay gives it the jolt it needs to kick on, and a burnt-out relay leaves the compressor silent or clicking. The condenser fan, mounted near the compressor, pulls air across the coils, so a seized fan motor makes the fridge run warm even when everything else works. These are parts a technician tests with a multimeter. The compressor and sealed system in particular are not a DIY job, both for safety and because the repair needs specialized tools.
Thermistor and control board
The thermistor is a small sensor that reads the fridge temperature and reports it to the control board. The board then decides when to run the compressor and evaporator fan. If the thermistor drifts or fails, the board gets a bad reading and may never call for cooling, so the fridge sits warm even though every mechanical part is fine. Temperature that swings up and down for no clear reason often points here. A technician confirms it by checking whether the sensor’s resistance changes with temperature.
Sealed system and refrigerant leak
The sealed system is the closed loop of refrigerant that actually moves heat out of the fridge. A small leak means the compressor runs and runs but never pulls the temperature down, since there is not enough refrigerant left to carry the heat away. This is a licensed-technician repair without exception. It requires leak detection, recovery, and recharging under regulation, so it is never a home fix.
Door seal problems
A cracked or loose door gasket lets warm room air seep in around the clock. The fridge fights a constant battle, runs longer than it should, and still struggles to hold temperature in a warm kitchen. Close a dollar bill in the door and tug: if it slides out with no resistance, the seal has failed and warm air is getting in.
How long before food spoils?
Move fast once the fridge warms up. The USDA considers perishable food unsafe after about 2 hours above 40°F (USDA FSIS), and a closed fridge holds a safe temperature for only around 4 hours once it stops cooling, while a full freezer holds for about 48 (USDA FSIS). Health Canada sets the same targets in metric: 4°C in the fridge, -18°C in the freezer (Health Canada). Keep the doors shut while you troubleshoot, and move anything critical to a cooler with ice if the fridge has been warm for a while. When in doubt, throw it out.
When to call a technician in Winnipeg
The basic checks are worth doing yourself. Anything involving the compressor, the sealed system, the control board, or wiring is where a licensed technician earns their keep, both for a lasting fix and for your safety. Profixit repairs all major refrigerator brands across Winnipeg and nearby areas with licensed technicians. Diagnosis is an $85 service call, waived when you proceed with the repair, and you get one firm quote covering parts and labour rather than a charge added on top. If your fridge is warm and you are staring at spoiling groceries, a same-day diagnosis is usually cheaper than replacing the unit. Our general fridge troubleshooting guide covers other symptoms, and if the fridge is also leaking water or showing other warning signs, it may need a proper look. Not sure whether to fix or replace? Our repair versus replace guide runs the numbers.
Fridge not cooling and food at risk? Profixit offers fridge repair in Winnipeg with same-day availability.
4.8 stars • 640+ reviews • 90-day guarantee on all repairs.
Call (431) 813-3999, or book online in 60 seconds.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my fridge not cold but the freezer is?
When the freezer stays cold but the fridge is warm, cold air is not circulating between the two compartments. The usual causes are a failed evaporator fan motor or a defrost system fault that has iced over the coils. Blocked vents and a stuck air damper can also cause it.
How do I fix a refrigerator that is not cooling?
Start with the free checks: confirm power, set the fridge near 37°F, close the doors, leave clearance behind the unit, and clean the condenser coils. If it still will not cool, the evaporator fan, defrost system, compressor, or thermistor likely needs a technician to test and replace.
Can I fix a fridge that is not cooling myself?
You can safely handle the basics: settings, airflow, cleaning the coils, and thawing a frosted-over evaporator. Anything involving the compressor, start relay, sealed system, or control board should go to a licensed technician for safety and a lasting repair.
How much does it cost to fix a fridge that is not cooling in Winnipeg?
No-cooling repairs are quoted after diagnosis, because the cost depends on which part has failed. A fan motor, thermistor, or start relay sits at the lower end, while sealed-system work costs more. Profixit charges an $85 service call that is waived when you proceed with the repair, and the quote you receive covers parts and labour in one figure.
Is the food still safe if my fridge stopped cooling?
Perishable food is unsafe after about 2 hours above 40°F. A closed fridge holds a safe temperature for roughly 4 hours during an outage. Keep the doors shut, move critical items to a cooler with ice, and discard anything that has been warm too long.
Who repairs refrigerators that are not cooling in Winnipeg?
Profixit provides same-day refrigerator repair across Winnipeg and surrounding areas. Repairs are handled by licensed technicians and backed by a 90-day guarantee. Call (431) 813-3999 to book a diagnosis.
Why is my fridge not cooling but the freezer is working?
Cold air is produced in the freezer and blown across into the fridge compartment, so when the freezer holds temperature and the fridge does not, the air is not making the trip. The usual causes are a failed evaporator fan motor, a defrost system fault that has iced over the coil, a stuck air damper, or food blocking the interior vents. It is an airflow problem far more often than a compressor problem.
